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Building a JART
   

JART Build Threads


Newest builds
  • Carlo in Italy
  • Steve in Sydney
  • Andy Green in UK
  • OFHarry in Oak Flats, Oz*
  • Mike May in South Africa*
  • Lee in Wales
  • Steve (surfimp) in SoCal
  • Steve (infopimp) in Norcal
  • Joe Yap in Singapore*

Other great builds
  • My original build thread*
  • Glenn and Rick in Australia*
  • Nick in Sweden (1)*
  • Nick in Sweden (2)
  • Mark Cornish in England*
  • Bill Osberg in U.S.*
  • Brett in Australia*
  • Andrew in United States*
  • Mike in United States*
  • Wulf in Sydney
  • Sam in Melbourne*
  • James in Texas
  • Russ in Utah*
  • James in Florida*
  • Leif in Norway*
  • Brian in Denmark*
  • Adrian in South Africa*
  • Grant in Southern California*
  • Harvey in England*
  • Harry in Northern California
  • jtcustoms
  • Build Thread Index
  • A short inspirational video

* finished and flown!


There is plenty of information in the build threads listed below to get you through. And if you have questions you can always contact me, ask your buddies, or post them in the forum.

It's all relative, of course. Building any slope plane, even an ARF, takes a level of commitment. I thought long and hard about ways to make this plane easy to build, but in the end it just takes patience and persistence.

There are three main design elements that make this plane a little easier to build than it could have been:

1. I put the stab up in a place where the builder can just run a pushrod straight to a control horn. No tubes to glue in, no torque rods to deal with.

2. I left off any intakes or blisters or other PSS details that take time to shape and prep.

3. The planform has no breaks and I left the wingtips and stab tips square - no curvy bits to shape.

Not earth-shattering, I know, but slopers are actually very simple toys so there wasn't much else to be done.

So far, I've used the lost-foam technique for building the fuses, and I've cut my own wing and stab cores with a simple hot-wire setup. But some guys have made fuse molds out of epoxy or plaster. This is fine for personal use, just don't sell any of those fuses, boys! My friend Paul Masura (aka dutchydawg1) finished my plug and built a mold so he gets to sell a couple, but at this point the list is closed so don't bother asking for one right now. I'll post it clearly on the site if we ever start pumping out kits on a consistent basis. Don't hold your breath, though – c'mon, dude, DIY!

Remember, you can build a JART any old way you like. Here are two of my favorite methods: (1 | 2). I still plan to put together a balsa built-up version with monokote covering at some point.



 

What's New –

 JART for sale!
 South Africa JART blog
 Ellison, Dorling, and Reed in UK
 JART T-shirts designed by Reed
 F3F T-shirts designed by Reed


Building Tips

Jay Decker puts joiner tubes in a sparless bagged wing at slopeflyer.com

Doug Boyd installs his blingeron hardware for us.

Mike May shows us a few plug and mold techniques.

Andy Green goes old school on a JART build.

Sam Sabey shows us how to "make it nice." Prep and painting tips.

Repairing a bagged/molded wing.

Silicon hinge method by Graham Woods.

Methods for wet-seaming a mold.

Russ Thompson has a lot of great tips at SlopeIron.com.

Paul Janssen on lost foam fuses.

Ralph Roberts knows what to do with nylon stockings.

Two other methods for building your own JART: 1 | 2


 JART Design Parameters
 Hi Performance
 EZ Build
 Tough
 Sexy


Wingloading Specs
  Wing area: 336 sq" or 2.333 sq'
  40oz AUW = 17.14 oz per sq'
  50oz AUW = 21.43 oz per sq'
  60oz AUW = 25.71 oz per sq'
  70oz AUW = 30.00 oz per sq'
  80oz AUW = 34.29 oz per sq'
  90oz AUW = 38.57 oz per sq'



Mike Hutchings
"The only complaint about flying the JART is that now I want to build one soooo bad! Thanks for handing me the sticks Reed, that was awesome!"
   
 
©2006 C. Reed Sherman